Why Build It?
I was recently asked in an email "Why build it 4'x6'? Why not make it as wide as the tow vehicle? Do you ever wish you could take the bicycles and motorcycle at the same time? Why brakes? Do you ever wish everything was inside and secure?" I sent back a reply, and thought I should also post my thoughts here so anyone else asking that would know my reasons. It is a very special trailer, designed for a special application.
I wanted a lightweight, low
maintenance, cool looking expedition trailer that would go anywhere while
carrying all my tent camping gear and four mountain bikes, on any kind of
terrain short of hard core rock crawling (which holds no interest for me - if I
were a rock crawler, I would have bought a specially designed steel offroad
trailer). The structure and box of the trailer is marine grade aluminum, the
same stuff offshore fishing boats are made of. The seams are continuously welded
for fatigue strength. The alloy itself is far weaker than steel, and has low
impact resistance, but it's trouble free and look very nice. Even the areas that
get peppered by gravel don't look bad, compared to the cancerous appearance of
rock-struck steel trailers. This is a trailer that attracts attention
everywhere.
The motorcycle rail was an afterthought, since I didn't even own a motorcycle at
the time I designed the trailer.
The trailer is as compact and as short as possible, so it can be maneuvered on a
tight forest road or trail, and the rig can normally be turned completely around
without uncoupling, except on extremely narrow, confined tracks. It has a stout
(3500 pound Dexter) single axle for off-road strength and maneuverability
(tandem axles don't work), and electric brakes for stabilizing the trailer and
for full manual control offroad. You ask why not make the trailer as wide as the
tow vehicle? It IS the exact same width, within a couple of inches.
The trailer track matches that of the LX450 closely, so the trailer follows very
nicely in deep ruts without trying to climb out and fishtail. The coupler height
is raised to the very maximum, so nothing drags offroad. The first thing to
touch is the jockey wheel on the tongue jack, and that happens very rarely. The
Aussie Treg coupler has 70 degrees up and 70 degrees down articulation, and 360
degrees of roll capability. I could roll the trailer without harming the
coupler. I can jacknife the trailer to about 110 degrees when backing before it
will contact the truck. On level ground the contact point is the steel offroad
rear bumper, not body sheet metal.
The tongue is extendable by 30 inches for long loads like a canoe or lumber, and
it can be removed completely for compact winter storage. I can also slip in a
regular ball coupler, dropped down 4 inches, on another piece of 2 inch square
bar, if I want to tow the trailer behind another vehicle with a ball hitch.
The brakes are really too big - 8 inch would be more appropriate than 10 inch,
but 10s come standard on the 3500 pound axle. The trailer has a GVWR of 3000
pounds, but it is running 2000 pound springs so it will ride easier lightly
loaded.
I use the trailer brakes ALL the time, regardless of load. When the trailer is
empty I dial back the current to 0.4 amps or less, depending on traction. The
trailer only weighs 350 pounds empty, with the hard lid and tail gate installed,
so I have to carry full gas/ water cans for ballast to keep it from hopping.
Fully loaded with camping gear and four mountain bikes, weight is something like
700 pounds, and I crank up the brake current to about 1.2 to 1.4 amps. When
fully loaded down with 2000 pounds of rocks or building supplies, I crank up the
current to 2 amps or more. 5+ amps (approx) is full amperage for two brakes, so
you can see that they aren't being stressed at all and will probably rust away
before the linings wear out.
I use a Jordan controller, which is unique because it has a mechanical cable
connection to the brake pedal, instead of relying on "Gee Whiz By Guess"
electronics to figure out the current required. Touch the brakes very lightly,
and you instantly get a trace of brake current. Slam them on and you get full
current, instantly. It is totally and repeatedly predictable, and does
remarkably well on gravel roads, bumps and dips. Inertial type controllers suck
once the pavement ends.
I chose all LED lighting for reliability and low current draw. Conventional
"garbage" trailer lights can break filaments on rough roads, and suffer from
contact corrosion due to poor weather sealing..
The reason for the running boards is gas and water storage outside the cargo
area (in case of leaks, and for easy access when the lid is closed) and so there
are wide steps for accessing the lid or interior, if needed, for cargo loading.
I can refill a gas or water can without even loosening the tie down straps. They
also keep the sides of the trailer clean and protected from dings, and they look
cool ;) I use the tops of both fenders as work tables when camping or riding my
motorcycle, and the opened tailgate as a big cook surface in camp. The height is
perfect.
The 48 inch by 72 inch box size is a "tad" too small. If I had to build it
again, I would lengthen the box by 12 inches (to allow me to run with a closed
tailgate when the motorcycle is in it) and I would also increase the side height
to 24 inches, from the present 20, for a little extra interior volume when the
hard lid is installed. I would increase the width by a few inches to allow me to
carry sheet goods flat on the floor (the rear tailgate structure intrudes now).
I would also move the axle forward 6 inches to reduce tongue weight, which is
way too high with the spare tire mounted in front. That, plus the extra box
length, would allow me to mount gas (or water) cans both forward AND behind the
axle for extra fluid capacity and weight balancing (a total of up to 20 gallons
of gas or up to 24 gallons of water). I had originally planned on carrying four
cans, but the trailer builder kinda messed up the idea by locating the axle too
far back. I think it would look way cooler with four cans....
It is plenty secure once the gate and lid are in place. I don't worry much about
anyone driving off with it, because I doubt if more than a few dozen people in
the country have a Treg coupler that will mate to it ;) I usually run a steel
5/16 cable with padlock around a tree to help deter would be thieves.
When I carry the motorcycle, I never leave camp with the bike left behind,
unless there is someone there I can trust to watch it. When the bike is left
alone in a parking lot (during a restaurant break) it is always locked with a
heavy bike cable lock PLUS highly visible orange rotor lock.
Bigger is better with a utility trailer, if all you want to do is carry a bunch
of stuff down a highway or gravel road, but once the roads end the trailer had
better be super compact, with lots of clearance and high approach/ departure
angles, or it will get destroyed.
If you are at all interested in this sort of trailer, check out the IH8Mud Off
Road Trailer forum for a lot of nifty ideas:
http://forum.ih8mud.com/forumdisplay.php?f=98
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